5-9 August 2004 - Moscow

The last time I went to Moscow, it was still the capital of the USSR. Since then, there have been changes aplenty .


The obvious first stop is to gawp at the Kremlin like proper tourist.

It is well worth a visit, and chocka with precious art. Most jaw-dropping of all is the Diamond Foundation, which has plenty of diamonds as big as your fist.

The famous St Basil's cathedral was shut up for extensive renovation.

One of the most recent additions is the Peter the Great statue by the City of Moscow's "court artist", Zurab Tsereteli

Private information tells me this statue was designed for the 1492 Christopher Columbus quincentennials, but was rejected - at which time the head was swiftly changed to Peter the Great and flogged to the Russians.

Golden domes are a reminder of how spiritually significant Moscow still is for the Orthodox Church.

The domes provide class where Stalin provided concrete and kitsch.