19 August 2002 - Albania-Greece border

Surely it's possible to get from Tirana to Istanbul in 48 hours, I thought. In theory, yes, but this is the Balkans, and I had not taken into account the full horror of the Balkans Border Experience. The Greeks were letting almost no traffic pass, and since I was on a bus, I too was trapped at the border. 19 hours later, with my nerves totally shot to death, I reconstructed my bike, and abandoned my travelling companions and 20 euros worth of ticket, to ride over the border and try to find better transport. As far as I know, my original bus may well be still stranded in no-man's land.

From Korça in Albania I took a bus heading to Thessaloniki, which arrived at the border half an hour later. This is where the troubles began.

We ground to a halt behind vast numbers of stationary vehicles, who had not moved for hours.

This is the Albanian customs post, at around midday. At 7am the next morning, I was still there!

The Greeks were continuing the world-wide tradition of treating Albanians like cattle, as a way of keeping them out of their country. Not being Albanian myself, I was not expecting to be kept at the border for 19 hours.

I realise hopelessly that it's too late to reconstruct the bike and cycle over the border before night falls. My misery is relieved by a cheeky Albanian hawker, who gives me a chewing gum in return for being photographed.